Chiang Mai is the hub of Northern
Thailand. With a population of over 170,000, it is Thailand's
fifth-largest city. Located on a plain at an elevation of 316 m,
surrounded by mountains and lush countryside, it is much greener and
quieter than the capital, and has a cosmopolitan air and a
significant expat population, factors which have led many from
Bangkok to settle permanently in this "Rose of the North".
Chiang Mai's historical centre is the walled city (chiang in Thai,
hence Chiang Mai - "New Walled City"). Sections of the wall remain
at the gates and corners, but of the rest only the moat remains. As
of March 2008 the moat has been drained and repairs are underway.
Inside Chiang Mai's remaining city walls are more than 30 temples
dating back to the founding of the principality, in a combination of
Burmese, Sri Lankan and Lanna Thai styles, decorated with beautiful
wood carvings, Naga staircases, leonine and angelic guardians,
gilded umbrellas and pagodas laced with gold filigree. The most
famous is Doi Suthep, which overlooks the city from a mountainside
13 km away.
Modern-day Chiang Mai has expanded in all directions, but
particularly to the east towards the Ping River (Mae Nam Ping),
where Thanon Chang Klan, the famous Night Bazaar and the bulk of
Chiang Mai's hotels and guesthouses are located. The locals say
you've not experienced Chiang Mai until you've seen the view from
Doi Suthep, eaten a bowl of kao soi, and purchased an umbrella from
Bo Sang. Ratchadamneon Rd, the main walking street from Thapae Gate
to the very popular Wat Phra Singh, is fast becoming the place to go
in the evening if you want somewhere a little more relaxed. Chiang Mai, like most of Thailand, is
quite safe, even at night. The dark streets can look forbidding but
crime is rare and visitors shouldn't worry unduly. As always,
travellers should take extra care in all poorly lit or more remote
areas.
Unfortunately some scams from Bangkok have started to rear their
ugly heads in Chiang Mai as well. Two in particular are worth
watching out for: the gem scam, where you are talked into buying
near-worthless gems at far above their real value; and the tuk-tuk
scam, where a smooth-talking tuk tuk driver tells you that the
attraction you want to see is closed, and instead offers you a
sightseeing tour for 20 baht (or some similarly unrealistic number)
- needless to say, the tour will either consist of nothing but
overpriced gift shops, or will smoothly segue into the gem scam.
Chiang Mai's restaurants offer a wide range of food, second only
to Bangkok. Naturally it's a good place to sample northern Thai
food: in particular, hunt down some khao soi, yellow wheat noodles
in curry broth traditionally with chicken or beef, but available
some places as vegetarian or with seafood. Anothern local speciality
is hang ley, Lanna-style pork curry. For those tired of eating rice
or noodles there's also a wide range of excellent western food
restaurant in Chiang Mai, from cheap hamburger stands to elaborate
Italian eateries.
Dress Code: You are in a tropical country so daytime wear of shorts,
T-shirt, etc. is quite OK; however you'll earn bonus points if you
look clean and tidy. Thai people (even the poorest) take pride in
personal cleanliness and appearance (look at school kids and college
students) so the "unkempt" style of some visitors is not
appreciated. In the evenings long trousers (dress or skirt for
ladies) with a neat shirt/blouse, shoes with socks for men and nice
shoes for women (no flip-flops) are a must if you wish to enter a
nice restaurant and get a good seat. The nicer you dress the better
the table and service. If not you might get a table next to the
bathroom, in a corner away from the view or in front of a loud music
speaker.
